Let me be honest, it was a lot tougher for me to find “don’t do it”-reasons than to find “do it”-reasons. If you have any more suggestions, please leave a comment below and let me know 🙂
Megapixels ain’t everything!
Still, to this day, many people think that the more megapixels a camera has, the better pictures you get. That’s not entirely true. The quality of the image sensor is more important. The amount of megapixels is just how big the image is. Obviously it does matter some, but don’t pick a camera because it has 18 megapixels compared to the competitor with 16 megapixels. There are other, much more important things, to consider.
D7000 has 16.2 megapixels versus the 12.3 megapixels of the D5000. Already with the D5000 you’ll be getting RAW filesizes of 10-12 MB per image. D7000 RAW filesizes will probably end up at around 16 MB per image. So if you go on vacation and shoot 1000 images, with D5000 they’ll take up 12GB on your hard drive while the D7000 would eat 4GB more. If you’re a JPEG shooter, this doesn’t matter much. I know that I’m mostly whining here… I prefer to shoot RAW “just in case”, but sooner or later I’m going to have to upgrade my internal drive – or split my Aperture 3 library into multiple files and on multiple drives which would then make my library much less user friendly to search for images based on keywords, GPS coordinates etc., if you have to search one library at a time.
If you already own Nikon D5000, you probably paid around $800 for it if you had it for about a year and you’re now considering upgrading to D7000. The D7000 is currently listed as $1,199 at Amazon US and £1,029 at Amazon UK. That’s a lot of money, especially considering you probably can’t get more than maybe $400 for your used D5000 since a new one would cost less than $700 these days.
Doesn’t make you better!
A new camera doesn’t always make you a better photographer. Sure, if you only shoot indoors in low-light then there’s a big difference if you’re shooting with a point & shoot pocket camera or an expensive DSLR with much better ISO performance. But looking at just D5000 and D7000, you’ll not become a better photographer by replacing D5000 with D7000. You’ll get more features, allowing you to play around some more and get different results – but you’re not becoming a better photographer overnight.
D7000 is 24.3 oz. (690g) and D5000 is 19.8 oz. (560g). Since D5000 is my first and only DSLR, I can’t really say for sure if the extra weight is going to matter at all. But it is heavier. Remember you’ll have to add the weight of your lenses to that, too.
Doesn’t have articulated LCD screen!
You could argue that an articulated LCD screen doesn’t matter if you’re not using Live View that much anyway. Nevertheless, I do find it useful from time to time on my D5000, especially when shooting from angles where you can’t easily see the LCD or if you’re shooting up high or down low on a tripod – just move the LCD so you can stand/sit comfortable and still see what’s going on. With D7000, you can’t do any of that.
Well, that’s it for my “reasons not to buy the D7000”-list. I’m sure there are more reasons that I just didn’t think of, so, please leave a comment below and tell us why you will not buy Nikon D7000. Reasons such as “I’m a Canon shooter” doesn’t apply 🙂